California is on fire this summer, but the air in the San Francisco is still clear, albeit foggy along the coast. Delphine and I went to explore the ruins of the Sutro Baths recently, once the extravagant site of the world’s largest indoor swimming pool, it was burnt down, in 1966, by an arsonist. Now it’s wet, strange scene: severed pathways of cement collect water along the beach- a nod to the vanished baths. It’s cold, and enormously lonely. But, also there is a darkly magical aspect. It feels like a place that is in some ways still, and ever, returning from the dead.